August 26: Rainy Markets & Coffee (Limerick)

It’s a perfect day for writing: A little misty outside, cozy inside. I’m currently tucked into a bright corner by the window of The Buttery - the same place I had lunch yesterday. I have this habit of repeatedly going to the same few places when I travel, not because I’m uninterested in trying something new, but because I like the feeling of becoming a “regular,” even if only for a short time. (Today when I came in, Neil, the host said, “You’re back!” and snuck me the staff wifi code so I could post this!) Plus, why not come back to a place with such amazing food and the best people watching!

I went to the Milk Market this morning — an old stone building packed with vendors, crafters, and food stalls and bustling with people. I walked through rows and rows of beautiful pastries, colorful vegetables, large wheels of cheese, colorful soaps and candles, and racks of vintage clothing that flapped against the cold wind. I dodged dogs puling against their leashes and kids guiding their parents over to another stall. I passed small tables crowded with families of shouting children and grandparents who grasped steaming cups of coffee or tea. There were groups of friends huddled in tight circles near food stalls, laughing as they bit into various pastries and sandwiches. It was lively — if not a little over stimulating — and it felt nice to find a place where local people were also spending their mornings. Since I still have more than a month of traveling to go, I avoided the shopping stalls, and instead got a smoothie to drink as I walked around and a loaf of homemade banana bread that I can eat over the next few days.

I wandered the damp streets for a little while, fighting against the cold wind and spitting rain. I stumbled into a dark and dusty-smelling vintage shop for a bit, drawn in by bookshelves lined with faded hardcovers and curious about the old video games and unfamiliar comic books that filled the interior of the shop. I listened to a few street musicians and spoke to one of them during a brief break in the rain. I stepped into a few other cafes from time to time for a brief moment of warmth, but I was still dreaming of my goat cheese omlette from yesterday, so I made my way back here.

Lucky Lane, Vintage Store, Limerick

The Buttery is a dreamy brunch-goer’s oasis: as beautiful as the food is delicious. The interior is a mix of worn wood and blue tiled floors. The walls are a deep grey-blue, like worn denim, covered in gold-framed prints of animals dressed as royalty. You’d almost miss the quirkiness of the decor alongside the cozy elegance. The back room is draped in vines and is lit with bare lightbulbs attached to bicycle wheel. The front room is lit mostly by the floor-to-ceiling windows that look out on the patio and the busy shopping street beyond. I could sit and watch the people pass for hours.

Today I opted for a vanilla latte and eggs Benedict with avocado. The latte alone is impressive. The foam is perfect and the flavor was heavy and sweet - perfect for a chilly day. But the food was somehow even better! I cannot oversell this: it is genuinely the best Benedict I’ve ever had. The eggs were light and fluffy, topped with crunchy nuts and creamy hollandaise, all surrounded by a circle of pesto. It is enough, honestly, that I would come back to Limerick just for a meal here!

The sun is fighting now to overtake the clouds and I think it may win, which would certainly help the rest of my day. I have yet to find my favorite Limerick bookstore (a requirement of my travels) and I have a few more walks with the dogs ahead. Mostly, I want to take advantage of the opportunity to share the bright streets with the masses of people who are going about their Saturdays as they always do. It is the best way to know a place: to experience it with its people. So, full, caffeinated, and happy I’ll head back out to the busy streets.

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September 3: Farmland (Kilbirnie, Scotland)

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August 25: An Garda Síochána (The Irish Police) (Limerick)